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USING CO2 SUCCESSFULLY
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| Carbon Dioxide Flow Chart for Emitter Systems | |||||
| 1000 PPM | (B) Flow in Cu. Ft. / Hr. | ||||
| (A) Cu.Ft.of Area |
10 | 15 | 20 | 25 * | 30 * |
| (C) Time (in minutes) | |||||
| 400 | 2.4 | 1.6 | 1.2 | 0.9 | 0.8 |
| 600 | 3.6 | 2.4 | 1.8 | 1.4 | 1.2 |
| 800 | 4.8 | 3.2 | 2.4 | 1.9 | 1.6 |
| 1000 | 6.0 | 4.0 | 3.0 | 2.4 | 2.0 |
| 1200 | 7.2 | 4.8 | 3.6 | 2.9 | 2.4 |
| 1400 | 8.4 | 5.6 | 4.2 | 3.4 | 2.8 |
| 1600 | 9.6 | 6.4 | 4.8 | 3.8 | 3.2 |
| 1800 | 10.8 | 7.2 | 5.4 | 4.3 | 3.6 |
| 2000 | 13.0 | 8.0 | 6.0 | 4.8 | 4.0 |
A. The cubic feet of the enclosure is determined by the formula (L x W x H).
B. Rate of flow as stated on the emitter regulator.
C. The time required to charge the enclosure expressed in minutes.
* NOTE: It has been my experience that if you set the flow meter up above 20 Cu Ft / Hr it can literally freeze up due to the cold created by the expanding gas. It is best to inject the gas slower over a longer time. -The Professor
| Carbon Dioxide Flow Chart for Emitter Systems | |||||
| 1500 PPM | (B) Flow in Cu. Ft. / Hr. | ||||
| (A) Cu.Ft.of Area |
10 | 15 | 20 | 25 * | 30 * |
| (C) Time (in minutes) | |||||
| 400 | 3.6 | 2.4 | 1.8 | 1.4 | 1.2 |
| 600 | 5.4 | 3.6 | 2.7 | 2.1 | 1.8 |
| 800 | 7.2 | 4.8 | 3.6 | 2.9 | 2.4 |
| 1000 | 9.0 | 6.0 | 4.5 | 3.6 | 3.0 |
| 1200 | 10.8 | 7.2 | 5.4 | 4.4 | 3.6 |
| 1400 | 12.6 | 8.4 | 6.3 | 5.1 | 4.2 |
| 1600 | 14.4 | 9.6 | 7.2 | 5.7 | 4.8 |
| 1800 | 16.2 | 10.8 | 8.1 | 6.5 | 5.4 |
| 2000 | 19.5 | 12.0 | 9.0 | 7.2 | 6.0 |
A. The cubic feet of the enclosure is determined by the formula (L x W x H).
B. Rate of flow as stated on the emitter regulator.
C. The time required to charge the enclosure expressed in minutes.
* NOTE: It has been my experience that if you set the flow meter up above 20 Cu Ft / Hr it can literally freeze up due to the cold created by the expanding gas. It is best to inject the gas slower over a longer time. -The Professor
Until recently CO2 generators were used primarily by commercial growers, but with the advent of smaller, less expensive units, many hobby growers now use generators. CO2 generators burn either propane or natural gas. They have a pilot light that ignites the gas when a timer has opened a solenoid valve to release the gas into the system (similar to a gas bar-b-que grill). The generators come in many different sizes.
Producing CO2 with a generator is more cost effective than using bottled CO2. The generators can produce aprox. 26.1 cu. ft. of CO2 per pound of fuel burned.
The generators work very well and are cheaper to operate than the bottled system, however, they burn the fuel so they give off a lot of heat as well as CO2. This may or may not be a problem for you. If you live in a colder climate and you need to add heat to your growing environment than a generator might be just what you need. If you live in a warmer climate you may already be battling the heat and adding more might send you over the top. With devastating effects on your crop.
Another word of caution about CO2 generators: If they are not working properly they can give off Carbon Monoxide (CO) instead of Carbon Dioxide (CO2). Carbon Monoxide is very dangerous! It is deadly even in small doses (CO2 is deadly too, but only in higher concentrations). You should only use top quality generators that have been built specifically for gardening and have been checked out by the manufacturer. When using generators make sure that the flame is burning blue, this means that there is complete combustion and the generator is putting out CO2 and not CO. If the flame is burning yellow or orange there is a problem with the unit. Turn it off immediately and do not use the generator until a qualified service person has fixed it! Yellow or orange flames mean that the combustion is not complete and the main by product will be Carbon Monoxide instead of Carbon Dioxide.
There are several ways to add CO2 to your garden that do not require a lot of expensive equipment. These are not automated so require more "hands-on" attention. Controlling the amount of CO2 is difficult at best with these methods, however there is little chance of accidentally adding too much CO2.
Decomposing organic matter gives off CO2 as a normal bi-product of decomposition. Use materials like leaves, sawdust, manure, hay, etc.This method of generating CO2 is certainly inexpensive, with most materials being free, but it can be kind of gross. Besides being messy there is a possibility of disease and fungus forming in the decomposing material.
The fermentation process also gives off CO2 as part of the natural process (that's what puts the fizz in beer). Mixing water, sugar and yeast together will cause fermentation to begin and for CO2 to be generated.
Dry ice is solid CO2 that is made by compressing the gas until it "freezes" into a solid mass. CO2 is a rather unique substance in that it goes directly from a solid to a gas, which means that you can simply set a block of dry ice in your growing environment and it will slowly "boil" off CO2 gas. Dry ice is probably one of the most expensive ways to produce CO2 in your garden.
One pound of dry ice is equal to one pound of liquid CO2 (bottled). One Pound of either is equal to 8.7 cu. ft. of gas.
If you drip vinegar onto backing soda you will produce CO2 as well.
If you would like to know more about using C in your garden there is an excellent book about it called "Gardening Indoors With CO2" by George Van Patten.
There is a lot of good information about CO2 equipment as well as other environmental controllers available at the following link. which is the website for GreenAir Products, which manufactures what most people consider the finest environmental controllers available for hobby gardeners. Remember to use your "back" button on your browser to return to Hydro-U. GreenAir Products
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